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  1. Jocelyn Sorrells says:

    I got my floors done with the classic stain in the yellow can. It’s so sticky . How do I avoid taking it all up ? What can I put over it to prevent it from being sticky so I can move my furniture back in my bedroom

    1. Hi! I would recommend talking with the professionals who did your floors, if they were professionally done.

  2. I stained a dresser yesterday afternoon with Varatane Premium Fast dry stain in KONA and it isn’t quite dark enough. Can I add a second coat of stain and if so, do I need to sand again?

  3. What about using a sprayer for staining? I have seen some posts that recommend using a sprayer for the poly to avoid brush marks.

  4. Such a helpful article! Thank you!
    I’m looking to refinish a red oak dining table. I love the images of the Aged Wood Accelerator on red oak but I’m planning to do some sanding over the stain for a more rustic/farmhouse look. Am I able to use a lighter brown stain under the Aged Wood because I want to limit any of the red from the raw wood coming through when I sand off some of the stain? I am not sure I’d get same look/color if the Aged Wood doesn’t have direct contact with the red oak.
    Thanks in advance!!

    1. Hi! The aged wood accelerator reacts with the wood itself, so the look will definitely be different if it’s stained. I’d grab a small piece of red oak from the store and test a few different methods!

  5. Christin Browning says:

    Hi! How long do I have to wait before applying a water-based poly (planning to use the triple thick water based) over top of the fast-dry dark walnut wood stain? Usually I thought you had to wait 72 hours going from oil stain to water top-coat but that was with another brand and stain type so wasn’t sure.

    I’m planning to do a train table for our kids. Would you recommend instead of the above just doing the Danish Oil in Black Walnut so that it is “food safe” since ya know the kids will be eating snacks while they play, and let’s be honest probably liking it at times ha! Looks like Danish Oil still needs a top-coat so I’d still plan to use the triple thick water based poly? If yes, similarly dry time before applying the topcoat- 72 hours?

    1. I usually wait about 24 hours before a top coat. And I think either option is probably okay – food safe ratings matter most for when you’re actually prepping/cutting things on the table or cutting – if a snack gets dropped or something, it’s no big deal!

  6. Hi,
    I recently purchased a white pine potting table with shelves. It’s unfinished, and I like the look… however, given the elements, I want to coat it with a protective finish. Is it ok to skip the stain and just use water-based polyurethane? And if so, can I skip the sanding step as well?

    Thanks in advance!

    1. Hey Meg! You should be fine to use poly without stain or sanding for this piece! Generally, when you purchase unfinished furniture it’s going to come sanded and ready for whatever finish you want to use!

  7. Hi!!! I’m staining I’m staining for the first time and your post has been sooooo helpful!!!! I just have a question… I’m using the aged wood accelerator on common pine… and I’m not sure which sealer to use so that the color is NOT affected. I know you said to you the lacquer spray for the weathered gray just not sure if that applies to the aged wood as well. Thank you!!!!

  8. Thank you for all this information! Do you have to sand new, untreated wood as well? I bought an unfinished maple vanity and I didn’t think I’d have to sand it, but now Im not sure. Thank you!

    1. If you’re buying it in the form of furniture, it’s likely already been fully sanded and is ready for stain!

  9. Jacqueline says:

    I’m using Varathane premium fast dry stain in Vintage Aqua, Weathered Grey, & Ebony on treated lumber. Two questions I did a sample board & loved it but didn’t take into account that I would need to do 2 coats of stain. I’m not layering the stain more like streaking the colors so u can see each individual color. Kinda hard to explain. If I could attach a picture I think you’d better understand what I’m trying to achieve. So how should I apply the second coat and for a top coat I chose Varathane Ultimate Spar Urethane Clear Satin. Will that yellow my stain colors? Thank you

    1. You don’t HAVE to apply a second coat unless you want to deepen the color. But, if you want to, I’d recommend repeating whatever process you did for the first coat if you want the color to stay generally the same! And the spar urethane shouldn’t yellow your colors if it’s water based – oil based might yellow it over time slightly.

      1. Kim McKenna says:

        The picture at the top of this post has many samples of colored squares in a dark blue (and a pair of blue runners). Is this picture of Varathane Worn Navy or another brand or color? Is the darker blue 3 coats? I am having a hard time finding a good navy blue stain for pine shiplap. Any advice you have would be much appreciated.